Diamond Shape Guide
Asscher
The asscher cut is the Art Deco square — a step-cut with deeply cropped corners that creates a uniquely architectural brilliance.
58-74 facetsBrowse Asscher Diamonds
About the Asscher
Created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam, the asscher cut is a square step-cut with deeply cropped corners that give it an almost octagonal appearance. It produces the same mesmerising hall-of-mirrors effect as the emerald cut, but in a square format with greater depth and a more pronounced "X" pattern when viewed from above. The Royal Asscher Cut, a patented 74-facet modification, adds extra brilliance while maintaining the step-cut character. This is the diamond of Art Deco — geometric, bold, and unmistakably sophisticated.
360° View
See how light moves through the asscher cut
Characteristics
- Square step-cut with deeply cropped corners
- Distinctive "X" pattern visible from above
- Deep pavilion for dramatic light play
- Art Deco architectural character
Ideal Settings
- Vintage
- Art Deco
- Four-prong
- Milgrain pave
- Bezel
Advantages
- Distinctive Art Deco aesthetic — instantly recognisable
- Deep brilliance with mesmerising step-cut flashes
- Cropped corners add geometric drama
- Excellent choice for vintage-inspired designs
Considerations
- Like emerald, requires high clarity (VS2+) for eye-clean
- Shows body colour more readily than brilliant cuts
- Smaller face-up appearance due to deep cut
Size Guide
A 1-carat asscher measures approximately 5.5 x 5.5mm. Due to the deep cut, asschers can appear smaller face-up than other 1-carat shapes. Prioritise clarity (VS2+) and colour (G+) for the best visual result.
History & Origins
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam — the same firm entrusted to cleave the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond for the British Crown Jewels in 1908. Asscher studied the Cullinan for two months before attempting to cleave it on 10 February 1908. His first blade broke on impact. On the second attempt, the stone split perfectly along his planned line. Legend says he fainted from the tension — though his son Louis later claimed the only thing that went down that night was a bottle of champagne. The original Asscher cut faded from fashion mid-century, but the family revived it in 2001 with the Royal Asscher — an updated 74-facet version that improved brilliance while keeping the vintage character. The firm is still family-owned.
Buying Advice
The Asscher's deeply cropped corners and high crown create a mesmerising optical effect: concentric squares pulling your eye into the centre, like an infinite corridor. It is unlike anything a brilliant-cut shape does. Like the emerald cut, the open table means clarity matters — VS2 or higher. For colour, G or better, since the step-cut facets do not mask warmth the way brilliant facets do. The Asscher carries more provenance than any other shape — if that appeals to you, nothing else will feel right.
Browse Asscher Diamonds
Browse our live inventory of asscher diamonds — GIA and IGI certified.